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Post by goodsteel on Jan 20, 2016 5:44:23 GMT -7
Recently, a good friend of mine made me a gift of a ten gauge side by side Zabala Mercury. I have always wanted one of these, and the very first thing I wanted to do was to cast round balls for it. Unfortunately, there is no load data round balls in the ten gauge, so I had to work up my own data. I pulled out all the load data I could and decided to use SR4756 to load it with. (I was unaware of the fact that SR4756 has been discontinued otherwise I would have started with Longshot). First thing to do was to get a good sight on there, so I mounted a 4X pistol scope on the rib. This worked better than you might think it would. Then I ordered a mold from this guy www.jt-bullet-moulds.co.uk/moulds.htmlIt needed a little TLC to work perfectly, but it makes a very very round ball .780 in diameter.
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Post by goodsteel on Jan 20, 2016 5:46:41 GMT -7
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Post by jasonf on Jan 20, 2016 7:25:54 GMT -7
here is a ten gauge slug i been messing with in my h&r ten gauge improved cylinder 24" barrel with open sights. i been using 4759 powder between 75-90 grains (hubel gave me a little info on where to start) with gas seals and cards to adjust height for roll crimp. i have settled on 75 grains. 90 is way to brutal on shoulder. slug cast from mountain mold and drops at .775 with wheel weights. very accurate at 75 yards. Attachments:
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Post by goodsteel on Jan 20, 2016 13:46:57 GMT -7
Yeah, I talked to Hubel too. He told me to use 140 grains of R-17 in my ten gauge. Told him that was more recoil than I really wanted to deal with, and I think he told me to grow a pair in a roundabout kind of way. LOL!
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Post by Junior on Jan 20, 2016 17:00:08 GMT -7
This looks like a interesting project. I had a rifled NEF 12 ga for awhile and wanted to design a 850 grain bullet to load in brass cases but never got around to it. I did get some of the 600 gn full size slugs and loaded them up hot and killed a charging black bear with it and it did the job.
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Post by missionary on Jan 20, 2016 17:00:24 GMT -7
Greetings Goodsteel I do like that scope set up on the 10. About 29 years We visited a missionary family in Iquitos on the Amazon. He flew into villages and part of his "work" was croc control. If a large one came around he would use a 12 gauge with Winchester slugs. One day flew to a village and the local pastor stated a "large croc" was eating the pigs and got a child. That evening they went out in a 12 foot dugout. Sure enough the big croc came to the light. Turned out to be near 24 feet long. Croc took two slugs at about 3 feet near straight down both in the same spot. Never penetrated or even brock the neck armor scales. Croc swam some turned and was coming back to fight. The pastor and missionary hightailed it out. I turned up about a month later and took on the project of a reliable croc thumper. That was my intro to round ball in shotguns. I knew RB in muzzle loaders (69's) was a superb penetrator so figured why not in a shotgun. Discovered through research that RB creates less pressure than a shot column. So I started out with 12 gauge loading info info for shot and have never had any pressure issues. Found the old Ideal manual (reprint) from about 1900 had an article about RB in Africa. Bottom line... RB will out penetrate any Forster slug. So our solution was standard Winchester game loads. Dump the shot and drop in a .685 RB. The Winchester load has an "plastic sleeve insert" that gives sufficient compression when exiting a modified barrel. Once we had the RB down here there was never any penetration issues with any croc encountered. No crocs here in our high altitude desert but I keep a supply handy for any Datsun that might ever need stopped. Mike in Peru
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Post by goodsteel on Jan 20, 2016 17:27:10 GMT -7
Cool story missionary! Yes, I have been exceedingly impressed by the penetration of the RB loads. A buddy of mine in NW Arkansas has won a few bets shooting through trees with them.
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Ten gauge.
Jan 20, 2016 18:54:24 GMT -7
via mobile
Post by jasonf on Jan 20, 2016 18:54:24 GMT -7
This looks like a interesting project. I had a rifled NEF 12 ga for awhile and wanted to design a 850 grain bullet to load in brass cases but never got around to it. I did get some of the 600 gn full size slugs and loaded them up hot and killed a charging black bear with it and it did the job. I got an accurate mold that puts out a 900 grainer. I sent it to Erik at hollow point molds and he fitted it with a hollow base that cast a 750 grainer. Haven't tried the 900 grainers yet. Forgot to mention this was a 12 gauge mold that drops at .733
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Post by missionary on Jan 20, 2016 19:23:33 GMT -7
Up in ILLinois I have a Fox B with a barrel set reamed to just .003 constricion at the muzzle. I use this as my RB 12. Using either a .685 or .735 RB at 1550 fps I would be willing to use it on anything yet walking about at 35 yards. 50-50 (pb-WW) just keeps on penetrating everything I have whacked with it. I hope to one day get to pop a large cow or horse from the "grill door" end just to see if it will traverse that 6 feet + of body. Mike
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Post by Junior on Jan 20, 2016 21:52:03 GMT -7
This looks like a interesting project. I had a rifled NEF 12 ga for awhile and wanted to design a 850 grain bullet to load in brass cases but never got around to it. I did get some of the 600 gn full size slugs and loaded them up hot and killed a charging black bear with it and it did the job. I got an accurate mold that puts out a 900 grainer. I sent it to Erik at hollow point molds and he fitted it with a hollow base that cast a 750 grainer. Haven't tried the 900 grainers yet. Forgot to mention this was a 12 gauge mold that drops at .733 If I ever get another rifled 12ga, I may have to get a few of those off of you. One reason I had liked the single shot, is using brass cases I was loafing it like a standard rifle cartridge and did not need to worry about being able to feed a shell through the tube. The bullets I had got before reminded me of a very enlarged version of the 22 cal lee Bator bullet. In brass cases, I seat them so that the top grease groove was just inside the case. I don't remember the load, but in my 18" Tracker with the AT collapsible stock that weighed exactly 4 pounds they were miserable to shoot. I kept the stock of that shot gun collapsed and it had a place where it fit perfectly in the passenger door of my pickup. I was out cutting woof one day while still in Alaska and had a stick get stuck in the chain of my saw. Got it out and threw it as, hard as I could over a root wad about 50 foot away. Apparently there was a, black bear behind it and she was not happy about getting hit with the stick. She stood up, laid her ears back, and about this time I dropped the saw and high tailed it to the truck, swung the door open, grabbed the gun, swung and fired from the hip. I hit her right in the upper snout at about 15 feet, exited the bottom of her head, went back in the neck and exited at the tail bone. My wrist hurt for a week, but it dropped her right in her tracks after destroying a lot of her neck and spine. The most I could ever stand to shoot at paper was 3 rounds, and it produced a group about 3" at 70 yards, which was fine with me.
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tom
Bullet Hole
Posts: 56
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Post by tom on Jan 21, 2016 8:01:57 GMT -7
Have any of you guys had any luck with a round ball in a rifled barrel? I have a Mossberg 24" rifled 12 gauge. I also have molds in .715, .690,.600 and .575. I don't have a lot of wads to choose from, and hate to buy a bunch of components that I might never use, just to try them for fit. Would a soft 715 slug up enough if shot without a wad? I have mostly 3" straight walled hulls, fiocci, I think. A couple years ago I bought some of those thick orange cups for steel shot and tried the tri ball load. I don't recall how much powder I used, but I backed way off James's tested blue dot load and still got the base flowing into the extractor cut. The cup and balls pushed through the barrel without any force.
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Post by Junior on Jan 21, 2016 8:34:19 GMT -7
I actually have. Dad has a RB mold, and although I do not remember the exact size, I do know that it fits perfectly in a standard 1 oz shot cup. I always just cut the crimp on cheap bird/target loads and dropped the ball in. I did try a few in that rifled NEF I had, and I don't recall them shooting any better from that then they did from the smooth bore with modified chokem
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Post by goodsteel on Jan 21, 2016 15:41:14 GMT -7
It's my opinion that the most accurate a RB could be from a shotgun is cast bore diameter +.005 inches, lubed with 45-45-10, and cushioned from behind with a packing fiber like COW or grits.
One thing I am scheming over is how to cut 1-90 to 1-100 riflings in the barrel. That's about right for RB's of that size.
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Post by Junior on Jan 21, 2016 16:46:19 GMT -7
That would probably make it a bit more accurate. How well do the barrels align on target at say 80 yards?
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Post by goodsteel on Jan 21, 2016 18:37:13 GMT -7
Can't say for sure yet. At 50 yards, with the load I have been using, the right barrel hits 3" to the right, and the left barrel hits 3" to the left.
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Post by missionary on Jan 21, 2016 18:57:20 GMT -7
Greetings Shooting RB in a rifled barrel is no different than shooting RB in a 45 colt or any caliber. That RB needs to be over groove diameter or it will not grip. In my Mossy 12 I run my RB .005 over groove. They seem to grip enough to get a decent spin and will do 4-5 inches at 100 yards with a starting velocity of 1200-1300 fps. I hunt river bottoms so never tried faster speeds. I just do not need it as my longest corn cruncher shot so far is at 33 yards. A near .740 caliber RB at 1200 fps will go through any bean eater east of the big muddy. And do not forget to lube the RB if it is in contact with the barrel. Mike in Peru
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tom
Bullet Hole
Posts: 56
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Ten gauge.
Jan 21, 2016 21:53:08 GMT -7
via mobile
Post by tom on Jan 21, 2016 21:53:08 GMT -7
Tim, what if you rifled a choke tube in that 1:100 twist rate, something like the paradox? That way you could have a bore diameter ball and the pressure would drop before it got the rifling. I would imagine that it would need a bunch of anti seize and not have many shots fired before unscrewing the choke tube just to keep it from over tightening.
Mike, does the ball really need to be over groove diameter? Never mind, I just visualized the narrow band being gripped by the rifling. I was thinking about using Teflon wrap to build up the ball diameter, but maybe it would be stripped off when it enters the rifling?
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Post by Junior on Jan 21, 2016 22:04:41 GMT -7
I don't think a rifled choke tube would work too well unless it was longer then the usual 2" of so that a normal choke tube is. I would think you would need at least 8" of rifling with a twist that slow and a ball that big.
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tom
Bullet Hole
Posts: 56
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Ten gauge.
Jan 21, 2016 22:12:41 GMT -7
via mobile
Post by tom on Jan 21, 2016 22:12:41 GMT -7
Not an expert by any means, but I think the paradox was only rifled in the last 2 or three inches of the bore.
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urny
Bullet Head
Posts: 39
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Post by urny on Jan 22, 2016 8:50:15 GMT -7
Did the paradox use round ball? I seem to remember pictures of brass cases with long tapering semi round nose bullets that would have had quite a bit more bearing surface than a round ball, even one a little oversize.
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tom
Bullet Hole
Posts: 56
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Ten gauge.
Jan 22, 2016 10:04:54 GMT -7
via mobile
Post by tom on Jan 22, 2016 10:04:54 GMT -7
Did the paradox use round ball? I seem to remember pictures of brass cases with long tapering semi round nose bullets that would have had quite a bit more bearing surface than a round ball, even one a little oversize. Good point, urny.there is a lot more surface on the paradox. Look a like another of my half baked ideas bites the dust.
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urny
Bullet Head
Posts: 39
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Post by urny on Jan 22, 2016 12:07:59 GMT -7
www.classicshooting.com/blogs/reading/17656164-notes-on-shooting-the-paradoxThe above reference is a nice article at Classic Shooting Company's site. CSC still makes (or at least sells) 740 grain loads for it, though the bullet is not as long in the nose as my faulty memory suggests. These are loaded in modern plastic cases. I suppose an ounce and three quarter bullet would kill a Missouri whitetail well enough, at any velocity higher than a good high school fast ball. A second check indicates that these are sold under H&H's label.
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Post by Junior on Jan 22, 2016 17:24:13 GMT -7
I'm gonna have to try finding a old rifled 12ga barrel and then turning it into a few different length pieces that I can thread into the end of my my master mag and try and see if I can make it shoot round balls better then just plane smooth bore.
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Post by goodsteel on Jan 22, 2016 18:46:59 GMT -7
Have you tried running round balls that are cast hard, lubed with 45-45-10 and are .005 over sized? At 50 yards you can hit golf balls. At 100 yards you can hit a pie plate. At 130 yards you can hit an archery bag target. At 150 yards you can hit a barn 10 for ten. LOL! Point is, keep your shots at less than 75 yards and you can do anything you need to do with a smoothbore if you just treat it like a normal firearm instead of putting undersized bullets in a shotcup.
Ya gotta try it. Buy the Federal 12 S3 wads and cut the petals off. Put 1.6cc Cream of wheat under the ball, and crimp with a normal 6 point. Watch your barrel heat. I used to shoot next to a pond so I could "water cool" the barrel every five shots or so, because once that baby got hot, the shots started going wild.
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