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Post by Bullshop on Jan 23, 2020 16:40:47 GMT -7
A few folks have asked what I do to keep the removable type hollow point pin hot while casting. One thing I do weather casting HP's or not is try to run at four cast per minute. Now since a picture is worth 1000 words I will here post 3000 words to help explain how I keep the pin hot and how I set the pace at four cast per minute.
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Post by shootist---Gary on Jan 23, 2020 20:48:23 GMT -7
That "office" looks familiar. Did I really see it almost 2 years ago, or was I just dreaming?
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Post by Bullshop on Jan 23, 2020 21:24:38 GMT -7
No Gary that was not a dream that was my most enjoyable day of the year.
OK then a little explaining on the pictures. On the left on the hot plate heating up is my mold and using a big nut as a holder the HP pin. The HP pin goes into the nut positioned so that the pin is resting on the heating element of the hot plate. That keeps the pin hot between casts.
Center picture is of the mod I do to my pots. It shows a change to the pivot point of the op handle. This changes the handle from an up touch to a down touch to operate. Also note the addition of the dual rate spring using the flow rate adjuster as a guide rod. This permits a constant pressure on the valve that does not change with the pot volume. The factory forward pivot location allows only the weight of the valve pin and handle to close the valve. The factory set up easily allows debris to slowly build up under the valve pin and eventually begin to drip. The mod greatly helps prevent this from happening.
Pic to the right shows how I maintain a constant cadence. I usually try for 4 cast per minute and that works good with most molds. Some molds because of large volume will drop to three and some with very small volume to as high as 6. What makes this type of casting possible without lead smearing and soldering to the mold top and sprue plate bottom is our Bullplate sprue plate lube, it works. Believe me to run a steady cadence of 6 per minute your hands have to be moving and there is no wait time for the sprue to cool. One other thing hard to see in the right pic is the cooling fan and thick copper heat sink. Sometimes with large volume multi cavity molds in order to stay at my prescribed casting rate the fan and heat sink are required to limit the sprue cool time to 3 to 4 seconds. There you go that is how I do my Rumpelstiltskin act and spin lead into gold.
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Post by missionary on Jan 24, 2020 5:49:10 GMT -7
Thank you Dan ! I like that reverse actuating lever idea ! The constant pressure on the rod is another good idea ! I added two caliber .75 round balls to each of our pots to get the constant pressure on the rod. No drips but there is a heavy weight to be lifting after several hors of casting.
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Post by Bullshop on Jan 24, 2020 8:37:02 GMT -7
Oh yea I forgot to mention another very simple but important tip. If you click on the far right picture to enlarge it you will note on the mold sitting on the hot plate that there is a rubber band wrapped around the mold handles. This is something I always do when either heating or cooling a mold. I was taught this trick as a means to prevent mold block warpage. Using this little safety method I have never had any mold block warpage so that the block halves would not fully come together. I have though purchased used molds that show some degree of warpage enough to cause some finning at the seem in the castings. I cant say yay or nay if it for certain makes a difference but it takes so little effort and gives me peace of mind that I do it habitually.
Another thing I just noticed lying between the pot and the hot plate is my Bullplate applicators. That is another thig I do habitually when casting.
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Post by missionary on Jan 24, 2020 9:35:21 GMT -7
Would be an interesting list of how the lowly cotton swab is used. They do work well for many things beyond the ear canal.
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Post by Bullshop on Jun 14, 2020 13:42:46 GMT -7
On re-visiting this thread I am quite surprised that there was no feedback on the amount of lead spatters visible in the pictures. Yes there have been a few wet pieces that found their way in. I don't get too concerned because I dress for the job. One thing I can say for sure though is that POP sound of moistier instantly converted to steam is a really good way to test your reaction time.
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Post by missionary on Jun 15, 2020 9:10:56 GMT -7
Nothing like the tinsel fairy to make a pleasant moment into shear terror. A good reason to pre heat those ingots.
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Post by Bullshop on Jun 15, 2020 9:36:59 GMT -7
Yes Sir you are right about that and I do in spring, winter, and fall but there are a few summer months when our wood stoves are not perpetually burning. Yesterday the cook stove was baking bread and today either I am getting wimpy or it is cool enough to want a fire going. But hey its not summer yet.
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Post by missionary on Jun 15, 2020 12:31:18 GMT -7
Brother there is nothing wrong with a friendly fire going. We still go out in the back yard and fire up some dried wood. The smell and flavors cooking over wood will neer be duplicated. And baking bread !!! Throw a pie together !!! So enjoy it while you can. Plus this age thing reminds me to often that being warm is not real bad.
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