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Post by sdkidaho on Apr 18, 2016 12:49:04 GMT -7
Hello,
I just bought my first muzzleloader, a .50 cal Knight Ultra Lite. I'll be using it for elk, in the Idaho muzzleloader season. Idaho has some restrictions on what bullets are allowed:
I'm wondering if you can make a recommendation on one of your bullets that fits within those restrictions, that would be good for elk and in my gun.
I did look at your list for the 50 caliber cast bullets, but I'm not sure what all of the acronyms mean, and or which would be the best fit for me, or if any of them are legal for me here in Idaho during muzzleloader season.
Thanks for your time.
Darby
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tom
Bullet Hole
Posts: 56 
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Post by tom on Apr 18, 2016 22:55:23 GMT -7
I believe pb as used there indicated plain base, as opposed to gas check. I looked at the knight on line and the twist rate says 1:28". Try this calculater to see what the max length projectile is that would stabilize in your muzzle loader.http://kwk.us/twist.html
You will need to figure out what velocity the bullet will be going to use the calculator.
I'm sure others will have lots more insight for you.
Looks like you have the rest of the abbreviations correct.
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Post by missionary on Apr 19, 2016 1:46:19 GMT -7
Greetings sdkidaho and Welcome about the place.
I shoot slow twist RB rifles so I can not be of much help. But it sure sounds like a heap of good outside time.
Mike in Peru
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Post by sdkidaho on Apr 21, 2016 8:39:01 GMT -7
Thanks Tom and missionary - I appreciate your replies.
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tom
Bullet Hole
Posts: 56
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Post by tom on Apr 21, 2016 12:02:52 GMT -7
Playing around with the twist calculator, it looks like 1 in 28 will handle almost anything you would want to feed it.
Normally, for conical bullets in a muzzleloader, you would want soft (pure lead). Use a lube designed for black powder to soften the powder fouling. When you settle on a combination, Mark your ram rod where it exits the muzzle to give you a visual reference for proper seating. Black powder plus airspace has the potential for an explosion.
I don't know if Dan has the mold available, but if not, I could lend him mine. The Lee r.e.a.l. design works pretty good with some rifles.
Another tip, swab with moistened patch between shots. If you let fouling build up,you're sure to stick a bullet or ball partway down the barrel.
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tom
Bullet Hole
Posts: 56
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Post by tom on Apr 21, 2016 12:45:32 GMT -7
Another tip... Rounballs with patch tend to stay put while walking around. Conicals have a tendency to move a bit. This is not an issue at the range, but in the field it is. While hunting, use your ramrod now and then to assure your bullet hasn't moved off the powder.
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Post by Bullshop on Apr 22, 2016 15:33:13 GMT -7
Our best selling bullet design for hunting with a 50 cal ML is by far the one designed by the folks from the Dirty White Boys site the 460gn NEx. Those folks do some amazingly accurate shooting with those White rifles. Many of the members from there and other sites have reported harvesting several elk and hogs using this bullet.
It also complies with the Colorado bullet length limit if that is important. Most of the folks shooting the White system are shooting this bullet at .504" diameter but you will have to determine what diameter your rifle will need.
I think we might have a testimonial from a successful elk hunter using this bullet on our web site.
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Post by sdkidaho on Apr 23, 2016 20:22:11 GMT -7
Thank you!
I'm not seeing the 460gn NEx on the .50 cal page of yours (http://bullshop.weebly.com/-50-caliber-cast-bullets.html)? How would I order some of those?
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Post by Bullshop on Apr 24, 2016 14:47:32 GMT -7
To order just email your needs to bullshop@3rivers.net
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Post by Bullshop on Apr 24, 2016 14:49:01 GMT -7
bullshop@3rivers.net
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Post by sdkidaho on May 15, 2016 8:19:18 GMT -7
Thanks again for all of your help and suggestions. I think I got it done, but I have a couple more questions. It worked pretty well I think. The first plug I made I used a wooden mallet to tap the rod to flatten the round ball, and it didn't flatten much, though it was enough that I couldn't see light passing the ball while it was in the barrel. It seemed hard to measure so I thought I would do it again, but this time I tapped the rod with a regular hammer. The plug this time came out much better as far as surface area to measure, and is the one in the pictures. Here is the round ball and the finished plug that came out:  You can see about where the round ball started, size wise:  Now here is my question. There are a couple different measurements on the plug that I made. The largest is .510, and the most common smallest is .503, so what I'm wondering is, does this mean the bullet size that I would need to order would be the .503?   I did also see some .502 and a half, and .503 and a half, but the most common was the .503, which of course that could be the digital calipers I'm using, but... I'm not 100% sure. More thoughts and or advice? Thanks again for your time. Here's the three together. Regular ball, first try at making a plug and second try at making a plug:  |
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Post by Bullshop on May 15, 2016 8:57:08 GMT -7
Sounds like you will need .503" or .504" diameter. .504" is the most commonly asked for diameter. Engraving .001" should be very easy with these pure lead bullets in a clean bore. The slight engraving will also help hold the bullet on the powder when handling the gun in normal hunting situations It may seat with more resistance in a fouled bore so you have to be the one to decide what you prefer.
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Post by Junior on May 15, 2016 22:56:02 GMT -7
LBT is the mold manufacturer, as is NEI.
The rest are as follows.
LFN - Long flat nose
GC - Gas check
FN - Flat Nose
PB - Plain base
SWC - Semi was cutter
HB - Hollow Base
I should maybe post a thread with all the abbreviationso some time.
Hope that helps.
As a side note, you probably do not need gas check bullets in the muzzle loader. That NOE hollow base would probably be a good choice if it will fit your barrel.
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Post by Bullshop on May 16, 2016 8:10:13 GMT -7
Interestingly when I was dealing with the friendly folks from the DWB's site a couple of them requested gas checked bullets for ML. I became interested to understand why so experimented a little bit. I found that if I annealed the gas checks the bullets loaded easily and shot darn good from my White ML. In the end though I decided that the only gain to using gas checks in ML was an increase in the per shot cost. I was not able to realize any ballistic gain.
Going through the process did teach me some things about bullet obturation with varying bullet hardness. These little tidbits of ballistic knowledge we pick up over time add to our total ballistic education package and understanding allowing application of all sorts of unconventional loading techniques not just in ML arms but in all venues of cartridge loading as well.
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Post by itllkeal on Dec 28, 2021 12:28:32 GMT -7
I always had my best accuracy out my old knight rifles with a Hornady FPB hollow base polymer tipped copper coated slug weighing around 350gr. I used 90gr loose pyrodex FF R&S powder no wad. The bullets expand to the true diameter of the barrel so it helps with maximum accuracy. My LK93 was a nail driver at 50yds and able to do around 4 in at 200. I regret selling it and my black knight was right on it's heals on paper. May want to check your rifling diameter before you decide if not already done. Goodluck
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